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My understanding of ODB2 Readers is that OBD2 is primarily focus on the engine management but can talk across the CAN bus to other modules, while there are standard codes for the engine, car manufacturers like to use non standard codes for a lot of stuff and they charge for access to what these non standard codes mean. Also for some of the more advanced stuff like talking the the ABS or other ECU's the reader needs to understand and send specific CAN bus messages which are again manufacturer specific and again manufacturers charge for access to this stuff. So a lot of the really cheap
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Hi Guys, I've got a chance on a 4.2 V8 from a broken LSE and the engine number strangely starts 'S40D*******. I know that the 40D is the correct number for the 4.2 block but I'm wondering what the 'S' is in front of 40D. Anyone know? does it mean it may have been remanufactured. Thanks in advance Baden
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Hi everyone, we’re first time Defender owners in the process of refurbing our 110 van pop-top camper conversion. In the process of stripping out a couple of cupboards we don’t want to keep we came across some nasty-looking rust on the right-hand rear body cap (pictures below). As newcomers we’d really appreciate your advice on a couple of points. Firstly, this looks pretty horrible to us, but is it the sort of thing that really needs to be dealt with immediately or is there a short-term fix we could do for now before replacing? We’re planning a trip in the next couple of weeks and also do
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Hi folks. May be a daft question but did the original 127s and 130s come with 750 tyres? (Rather than the later ones that came with 235s) if so, I can’t get my head round why they came with 6.5j rims. Would it really widen the track by that much? Or would it have been more about having more meat in the rim for strength? reason I ask is that I’ve always fitted 130rims to my series builds and have a set in storage replays for my new build and I remember when the last one was finished expecting the track to widen much more than it did with 750s fitted. -
I'm looking for clarification on the part number for the two 1/2 inch UNF bolts that go through the panhard rod to chassis bracket as I've managed to order the wrong item. This is the item: From the remains of the two bolts they look the same but when I looked on lrworkshop there were two seperate parts listed, I ordered 253948 and BH608381 - https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-axles-suspension/front-suspension/radius-arms-links_52609#19 253948 looks corrent but BH608381 is incorrent (my mistake). I made a mistake with the year code and had meant to order BH608461.
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I appreciate that this is a done to death subject, but i'm on a slightly different track here. I have turned the diaphragm quarter of a turn, star wheel down one turn. What my issue is, is that the boost comes in very gently. I drove a friend's discovery, and the off boost/on boost transition is very snappy. His truck goes much better than mine. I get reasonably dense smoke off boost and a light haze on boost to full throttle. Any ideas? I wonder weather I should screw the low speed fuelling screw out a little to cut down the smoke off boost. I dont know if that would affect how the turb
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I've purchased a new Alternator for my 2.25 petrol series 3 ( correct part ) , the bladed part seems to drag on the body as it spins ( by hand , I haven't installed yet ) is this correct ?, does the G force of opeation push it away from the body ? Any advice would be appreciated , thanks
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LR4x4.com Technical & Popular modifications Archives
Snagger replied to western's topic in International Forum
But how do you get to the tech archive? It’s not showing on any of the navigation bars on this IPad. That is why I posted the screen shot on my previous query - it’s not there, and doesn’t show up as a submenu from any nav bar selection. -
Hi everyone, We are pretty new Defender owners and would really appreciate your advice on a query regarding the rear wheel boxes. We have a 110 TD5 van (2002) and are trying to create more space in the rear tub to fit some gear for overlanding. The previous owners have cut holes in the rear wheel boxes behind the front seats to create additional storage space (see photos). We would ideally like to remove this section of wheel box altogether, from the front of the wheel arch to the bulkhead behind the passenger seat (to fit a fridge). Does anyone know if it’s ok to do this? Obviously on th
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Ok chaps so I’m gona finally sort out some wiring on my ‘86 90. Fitting Anderson connector for jump start, second battery with plug for camping etc, isolator switch for the winch. I’m also looking at replacing the earth and positive cables but I’m unsure if 170amp is enough or should I go higher rated?
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I'm trying to trace all the clunks and bangs in the drivetrain on my 97 300TDi 130. I've got a strange subtle 'pop' noise when pulling away from a standstill. I am 80% sure its coming from the rear. I've been through everything I can think of now including: Transfer box input shaft (good) Drive flanges (good) Half shafts (rear are good but not stripped far enough for the front) CV joints (no issues when wheels are at full lock so I'll assume these are good) Props are new Gwyn Lewis supplied and all good Handbrake was clonking but now that's been stripped
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with regards to the car always going back to Comfort Mode, one of the guys on the Defender2 forum managed to get an answer from JLR: "Someone from the infotainment and UI development team at JLR replied to my query about the above issue (the TR always defaulting back to Comfort mode after an ignition cycle.) It's an emissions testing requirement (not sure in which country - probably more than one.) The rules mandate that a vehicle always has to start in the same conditions used for such tests. So, there. It's something we'll have to learn to live with." what a major PITA! One th -
Only a day or two ago I fired a query at you blokes about identification of an air-filter box seen in a Series. You all seemed to swat it back at me with a clear answer in hours, so if you don't mind, can I throw another at you? Seen here is a Series with a 2.5 17H Petrol sitting in it, but it's the heater-box that catches the eye. I'm afraid, found listed in eBay, these are the only pix I have. Series heaters are a legend for not being up to much. Top right of last piccy shows it best.... what's this we're looking at, is it a Defender heater-box from later? Why the moulded-arm shown Bott -
Disco 1 top radiator hose (non aircon)
western replied to Tim_NZ's topic in Requests for Part Numbers
2 numbers in here ESR1052 -- Note new part number https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=ESR1052&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10 or ESR3297 -- https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=ESR3297&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10 Ibelieve this is for later vehicles from chassis number starting MA. -
Hi there. A work colleague in Germany has a 1983 88inch Series3. He believed it has a 2.25L Diesel in it but when he tried to sort a new head gasket, the type is coming up as 2.5L. Also some other parts on the engine are not recognised by the German dealers. Is there a key to the engine numbers to say if it is 2.25 or 2.5L? He has given me the number (although I won't post it here) so I could cross check. I also have head number ERC9358 as the PN. Any info gratefully received. Cheers,
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When should a switch be in the Live or Earth line?
Dave W replied to Troll Hunter's topic in International Forum
It makes no difference which side you switch, negative or live. The FIA switch has 3 independent switches, the main one for the power and two additional ones that are used to stop the engine and put a load on the alternator. That's the difference between an "FIA Switch" and a "battery cutoff switch". I personally prefer to switch the live but it's not an issue switching the earth as long as you remember to make sure that the alternator load resistor is connected to the unswitched earth (the same earth the alternator is connected to). There is a regulation (not sure if it's MSA or FIA) for all -
My LWB has just failed the MoT on the fog lamp. It goes off when the main beam comes on. I thought that was correct. Why would you have fog lamps on when the main beams are on?
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Morning , I realised on a recent journey that my headlights were useless , I looked up advice as always on this site , ran a earth directly from - to light and it's all good so obviously a earth issue ( easy ) . Traced earth wire bolt to just below clutch cylinder , and it's basically black and covered in carp , The query I have is this , I could just run another wire from lamp to any earth point directly , the other option of course is to clean the existing earth point however I have no issues with other electrics , should I take the easy option lamp- earth would this cause a problem , I'm as
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Just in process of replacing pinion seal, seal is in but it was a right old bugger to fit. Now refitting the flange. New flange I had just in case original one was badly damaged/scored seems incrediby tight to get on so I'm giving up on it and going back to the original one, and its now back in without any drama. I've read the various threads on the preload seetings and crush tubes etc and massive (maybe!) torque required to refix to original settings. However mines was quite easily removed when it came apart and now apparently despite being at the marks I'd punched on nut/flange there se -
Proably easier and quicker to buy another used Salisbury rear axle from online ex military dealer or look on ebay/Facebook marketplace, quite often rear Salisbury drum braked axles get listed on both as other owners swap it out for one with rear disc. the axle diff is the same on drum & disc braked axles as is the axle casing. the pinion nut is LR part 90608545 https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=90608545&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10 this webpage gives the thread info https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=18374
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2005/55 Defender Td5 Hardtop with no electronics. Today, looking for an odd clicking noise from the OS front wheel, I started taking things apart. Long story short, I am confused by my top swivel arrangement. Everything else appears to be 110 - calliper, vented disc etc. - but the top swivel appears to be the Discovery type with the radial roller bearing under it (similar to STC226 but the non-ABS variant) rather than the type being sold for Defender (TAR100040 for mine, post XA159807). So, has the wrong part been fitted? Could I have a RR/Disco axle? Are they interchangeable - if I b
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Hi. Going overseas and leaving the disco (diesel) parked in the garage for a couple of months. Anything I special I should do or should it be ok? Sorry if a bonehead question. Ta.
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Am I right in thinking that when I purchase series 3 locks anti burst or otherwise that they don't come with the stiker latches? seems like a bit of a weird set up. £30 odd pound seems about right but when im adding on another £15 for a striker plate and £5 for postage it soon adds up.
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I am going to fit a reverse light into the series , I know I can put a switch in the gearstick casing , however I am just going to mount it on the dash instead , today I opened up the panel and the switch that has the small clock / dial picture on it ( I think it was for interior lights at some point which I don't have ) literally had a wire coming from it that went nowhere ? Just a single wire . Am I right in thinking that if I want to use this switch position ( keeping it tidy ) that I need to legally have an illumination switch as a reverse switch , I remember reading something once , it i
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I'm just fitting new brake shoes to the rear of my 109. I've noticed that although the metal part of each shoe is identical, the actual friction material is positioned differently on them. In the set of four, there are two with the pad closer to the fixed end, and the other two have it closer to the slave cylinde end. (See the attached photo) The ones that came off are the same, and although I carefully noted whuch holes the springs belong in, I didn't not which way wound the shoes were fitted (and it was me who fitted that set 15+ years ago, and I'm not sure I knew the right answer
